Question by aaronskilz: A vehicle audio query about my 2006 ford explorer xlt?
All right I would tremendously appreciate some aid. I have a 2006 ford explorer xlt which has a a hundred thirty amp alternator and a 650 amp battery. I am attempting to get a really beast sound technique but im not as well great with the breakdown of the setup. All i know is that I presently have I do think a six cubic feet professional box, and to set within of it I am seeking to set two CADENCE 12″ 2000w Opposition Vehicle AUDIO SUB WOOFERS( sorry for the caps), model zrs12-a thousand-four. These are solitary voice coil and four ohm subs, that run at of class 2000w peak and 1000w rms. My problem is with the setup I have in brain, what specifically will I require to be ready to energy these subs to at least three/4 of there max energy. If you could give me specific examples of an amp and other issues to support me out I would be most grateful! thank you so considerably for your time !
Very best reply:
Reply by BDBatteries.com
Ahh, you update the stereo, but with no the electricity tanks to draw from, it is worthless.
Your battery is not 650 amp, but 650 CCA. Possibly 40-sixty AH. Dependent on the figures beneath, you will blow it in beneath an hour….
CCA = Chilly Cranking Amps, the measurement to commence the vehicle (beginning batteries)
AH = Amp Hours, or electricity above time, to run electronics like this stereo. (deep cycle batteries)
Your alternator helps make 130 amps when you are at large RPM, but not at idle.
SO you get a 1 hour road excursion, you charged your battery all the way up, 2x.
If you want your stereo to work when you are in site visitors, at a stoplight, etc…you need to have power tanks.
Good setup when you are not drawing Energy, but you are about to 
Batteries are the only factor that holds electrical power like a tank.
A capacitor holds power for seconds, and fires challenging for foundation and peaks (charging slowly).
So Capacitors are required if you chince on the batteries, or if you have a tremendous sized program.
First let us go above electrical power, and how it comes out of your batteries.
1000 watt RMS at 75% electricity = 750 watts
To see that at 12 volts, you want amps, so use ohms regulation… (750w/12v = sixty two.5 amps)
Operate that for one hour and you utilised 62.5AH plus ten-%30% for inefficiencies in your wiring (thick wires = a lot less reduction).
So you could run your setup, two subs at 750w ea, or 1500 watts, or 125amps at 12 volts.
You need at minimum 250 AH of battery to operate that for one hour, and you could do it 1000 instances.
www.lifelinebatteries.com/graphs.asp
This battery holds 3KWH in 1 box, and would electrical power that stereo nicely for an hour at 60%, with the head unit (200w or 12v a sixteen.6amps), and the tweeters (500w or 41 amps). It would do so about six-700 moments.
http://www.bdbatteries.com/rvflyer.php?id=5
Now you have a alternative:
1. include another battery bank, isolated from the engine (but sucking electricity off the alternator like an RV). Schematics, design and concept are right here:
http://www.rv-batteries.com
OR
2. Change your starting battery with a deep cycle battery that has much more AH, and satisfactory CCA to nonetheless start your automobile. It will not previous forever, but if you get a very good a single, it will last a although…
I wager one particular of these will match – the larger the better:
http://www.bdbatteries.com/rvflyer.php?id=one — 12v 80AH – 680 CCA
http://www.bdbatteries.com/rvflyer.php?id=2 — 12v 100AH – 715 CCA
http://www.bdbatteries.com/rvflyer.php?id=three — 12v 105AH – 780 CCA
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